By Dana & Bob
Here are some highlights from first 10 days of our 2021 cruise.
This year we took a different rout. Instead of sailing to Unije, Losinj, Silba…. we went to Cres, through Osor channel to Rab and E side of Pag. Velebit channel (between island Pag and Velebit mountain chain) can be very dangerous if ignoring N wind forecast. In the channel, Bura can reach Hurricane strength and there is very long way to any protected bay. We had very good forecast so decided to go for it.
After first day of sailing in light W wind we spent a night in safety of Ustrine bay on the island Cres. It is very safe anchorage close to Osor channel which we had to reach by 9:00 o’clock as bridge is opening only twice a day.
Ustrine bay
Ustrine bay is very safe free anchorage protected from all winds. In case of strong SE better move to the S side of the bay.
After very quiet night we started to Osor channel which separates islands Cress and Lošinj. Very narrow passage connected by rotating bridge. Boats are passing 1 by 1, S to N first. Current is sometimes very strong. All in all very interesting experience.
Osor channel
Wind was very light from various directions. Advance was very slow but we managed to sail most of the way to the Baldarin bay on the island Cres.
Baldarin bay is long narrow and well protected. Last third is quite shallow (3-4m). Perfect for us. There are no buildings on the shore and it is very quiet place. It was raining most of the night with medium to strong S wind. We felt safe and slept well.
Baldarin bay
Baldarin bay is open to S and SE but we felt safe in stormy, rainy night and medium to strong SE wind. Anchor was holding well in 3-4m on the sand bottom.
Our next destination was island Rab. One of our favourites.
We fought our way tacking in strong NW and arrived in St.Fumija bay around 16:00 o’clock. In time to get some rest and explore beautiful town Rab.
We anchored in this bay few years ago but had no time to explore around. St. Fumija is large shallow bay with sand bottom. 3 – 18m . Perfect for anchoring. Well protected and safe. No buoy field so it is free.
Rab surprised us with its beauty and nice surroundings. There are walking pats through pine forest and along the shore. Everything is clean and well maintained. Old town is very charming with many nice restaurants and few great view points. It would be worth staying at least 1 more day but we had to move on to island Pag.
St. Fumija bay
St. Fumija bay, large and well protected anchorage. 20 min. walk to the old town center.
We left Rab around 9:00 o’clock. Very early for our standard. There was no wind so motoring part of the way was necessary. After couple of hours light W wind started and so we could hoist gennaker. Wind gradually picked up so sailing was much faster.
Rab
Sailing Velebit channel is amazing experience. Landscapes are beautiful, specially island Pag. Winter time, Bura blows so violently that nothing groves on that side of the island and it looks like a Moon. There are many small bays very nice for a short stop but nether of them will give enough protection from Bura.
We reached Caska bay just before sunset. We were only sailing yacht on the anchorage. Pag bay is quite shallow and it is possible to anchor anywhere depending of wind direction. Bay is beautiful and there is something interesting where ever you look.
Caska bay - part of the Pag bay
Caska bay – very special place. We anchored in 5m in front of the beach. We had calm weather and good forecast so not sure how much protection it gives in any serious wind. It should be good for everything but SE.
Next to Caska bay is Zrce bay – famous party beach and resort.
Zrce beach
30 min walk to the W side of the island and popular tourist destination – Novalja. In our opinion, nothing spectacular. Few hotels, many restaurants, cafes and shops…. After all, Novalja is good base and starting point to explore the island.
Novalja
It was time to move on. Nice weather will not stay forever. Forecast was good for only 1 more day.
We had about 30Nm to cover (sailing if possible) so early start was necessary.
Amazing landscapes on the way and Pag bridge for the end of the day were highlights of the day.
Pag bay
There is quite good and safe anchorage in Jasenovo bay close to Nin.
We anchored in about 7m in a sand and mud bottom in E corner. View from nearby hill is amazing. Specially in sunset time. Quite busy and noisy during a day but very quiet in the evening. Only 3 boats at the anchor.
Jasenovo bay
Jasenovo bay – we felt very safe as anchor was holding very well in soft sandy bottom. Calm water and easy tender access to the shore. No facilities of any kind except noisy beach in the S corner which we avoided.
After Jasenovo bay we decided to check on Dobra uvala on the island Dugi.
Sailing from Jasenovo bay to Dugi took us quite long time as we had to tack in strong 4bof Maestral trough the channel between Pag and Vir.
Anyway it was fun and wind perfect for us to sail fast.
We anchored in Dobra bay few years ago. It is quiet and safe anchorage. Well protected. Open only to SE. There is space for max 3 boats. Water is clear and no rubbish. Good place for a swim and quiet night.
Dobra uvala
Dobra uvala – nice and quiet. Very poor internet. No any kind of trails so exploring on foot is impossible.
Next day we sailed around islet Golac to explore Baricevac and Pantera bays. There are many buoy fields and only couple of possibilities to anchor for free.
1. is at the end of Baricevac bay but it is open to NW so take care about weather forecast.
2. is Lovka bay which is open to N and NW. If wind is not too strong it is probably still OK but I prefer to be totally protected from the W as short violent storm – Nevera (which is quiet common in the Summer) comes from that side.
Pantera bay is better protected but overpriced buoy fields and marina are only options so nothing for us.
Pantera bay buoy field
We sailed to good old Podgrabe bay on the island Molat. Very nice and safe in all but S winds.
As we like to hike whenever possible we went for a walk to the village. There are two parts of the village Molat. Upper part with a church, post office and “Studenac” minimarket. Lower part on the shore with small harbour and few restaurants. Very pleasant and charming place.
Molat
Next on our rout was Zincena bay on the island Pasman.
Big bay and safe anchorage. 5 – 8m sand bottom holding well. Lot of space and many options. Just few holiday houses on the shore and very quiet.
Zincena bay
Zincena bay – large anchorage with good holding. Situated between 2 buoy fields. Nice trails and restaurants (konoba) on both sides.
Anchoring close to the small pier is most convenient as you can leave your tender there and go for a hike to 1 of nearby buoy field bays where you can have dinner in some nice “konoba”.
We decided to go North to Soline bay. About 40min walk and some magnificent views on the way.
Landin bay (left) and Zincena bay (right)
By the time we arrived there it was already sunset and we got very hungry . Konoba “Kiss” looked very inviting with a nice terrace and sunset view. Very pleasant atmosphere and good prices. Food is nothing spectacular but OK for the price. Only complain is that our fish was a bitt overdone and too salty. Overall, we can recommend it.
Konoba Kiss
First 10 days of our cruise we finished on the island Kaprije.
Forecast was strong S wind so this bay looked promising. We had to stay two nights as wind was too strong to tack all the way to Rogoznica.
Mrtovac is nice anchorage in medium S and W wind. Sandy bottom but our anchor was not holding very well so when wind picked up we had to move to the safer place.
Mrtovac bay
Mrtovac bay – pleasant anchorage with a nice access to the shore and short walk to the village Kaprije
There is a road to the other side of the island and village Kaprije. Short walk and very nice view.
Village itself is small and cosy. Large buoy field and small harbour. Quiet busy.
Kaprije
Second day wind picked up and very strong gusts from various directions where blowing over the island. Our anchor was not holding even with 30m of chain plus 10m of rope.
We had to leave and find safer place.
Kaprije bay buoy field and harbour were full so we had to keep on looking.
Island Kakan, W of Kaprije was our best chance. There are 2 buoy fields. We found buoy in Tratica bay. Only 2 more boats where there. It is little bit open to SE but it was reasonable calm in these conditions. Blocks are small and not safe for bigger boats in stormy conditions but for us it was good enough.
We felt safe and slept well.
Tratica bay
Here we finish impressions on first 10 days of our 2021 cruise.
